Ice Cave hike, Durmitor

Key facts

• Shelter: Lokvice, 1,800 m, at the main trail junction, up to 20 people, open all year.
• Park ticket: €5 per person per day.
• Best months: June to October.

The route from Black Lake

The route starts at Black Lake, 1,418 m, the park's busiest spot and one of its ticket checkpoints, and follows the line the park itself recommends, from Crno jezero via Stari katun (Lokvice) to Ledena pećina. Lokvice is a traditional summer settlement and the main trail junction of the massif, where the paths to Minin bogaz, Bobotov kuk and the Ice Cave part. The park's Lokvice shelter stands there at 1,800 m: room for up to 20 people, open all year, and one of the park's designated camping places (camping anywhere else in the park is not allowed). From Lokvice the route climbs on to the cave at the top of Obla glava; the whole way up from the lake is about 760 m of climbing. A GPX track of the route is on the Žabljak tourist office's trail page. The cave also lies on one of the park's three routes up Durmitor's highest peak, from Žabljak via Lokvice, Ledena pećina and Valoviti do to Bobotov kuk.

The loop over Minin bogaz

The harder way to the cave is the circular tour from the Black Lake car park over Minin bogaz: 17.42 km, 1,122 m up and the same down, graded hard, between 1,427 and 2,348 m. It climbs steeply through open alpine ground to Minin bogaz, a sharp rock notch nicknamed Durmitor's alpine needle, with Bobotov kuk, Bezimeni vrh and Rbatina in front and, to the east and south-east above the Lokvice valley, Međed, Terzin bogaz, Šljeme and Milošev tok. From the bogaz the route continues to the Ice Cave and returns to the lake. It is a tour for experienced hikers with exposed ridge sections; a GPX file is on the tourist office's page.

The cave

The Ice Cave sits under limestone cliffs at the top of Obla glava. Ice covers the floor all year: large blocks, frozen cascades and figures about the height of a person, with a cold draught at the mouth. The water inside stays icy in the middle of July and the chamber cool in the hottest weeks of summer. Entry is by rope or feet first through the opening, and there is no path, lighting or staff inside. Lipa Cave near Cetinje is Montenegro's only cave set up for tourist visits; every other cave, this one included, is a natural object, and exploring one beyond its entrance is for expedition groups with an experienced caving guide and a permit from the Environmental Protection Agency. For most walkers the cave is the goal of the hike, seen from its entrance.

When to go

June to October. Durmitor's high routes are walked from June to the end of October and are at their best from July to September; the ice is inside in every month.

Fees and guides

Both routes are inside Durmitor National Park: €5 per person per day, paid at the Black Lake checkpoint or online at ulaznice.nparkovi.me. The park hires out guides at €40 for four hours and €80 for eight. Solo tours are discouraged on Durmitor; a licensed mountain guide or an organised group is the recommended way onto the high routes, and the Mountaineering Association of Montenegro lists the certified guides.

Getting there

Both routes start at Black Lake near Žabljak, the highest town in the Balkans at about 1,450 m; the loop starts from the lake car park, where parking is at park rates (car €1 an hour).

Safety

The cave entrance is a drop: go in only on a rope or feet first, with a torch and a companion, never alone. There is ice underfoot all year. The loop over Minin bogaz has exposed ridges and is for experienced hikers only. Follow the advice of the Mountain Rescue Service. The emergency number is 112.

Nearby

Black Lake is the start of most Durmitor walks, listed on the hiking in Durmitor page. The summit hikes Bobotov kuk and Prutaš have their own pages, as do the Savin kuk viewpoint and the Durmitor massif. Lipa Cave and the country's other caves are on the caves hub.

Questions

Is there really ice in summer?

Yes. Ice blocks, frozen cascades and figures the height of a person stay inside all year, and the water is icy in the middle of July.

How long is the walk?

6.55 km one way from Black Lake through Lokvice, with about 760 m of climbing to the cave at the top of Obla glava. The loop over Minin bogaz is 17.42 km with 1,122 m of ascent.

Can I sleep near the cave?

At the Lokvice shelter, 1,800 m, at the trail junction below the cave: up to 20 people, open all year, and a designated camping place.

Do I need a permit?

Not for the hike: the park ticket is €5 per day. Caves other than Lipa Cave are explored only with a caving guide and the Environmental Protection Agency's permission.