The Stories by the Water (Top Trail 5) cycling route

Key facts

The route

The first section, from Cetinje via Rijeka Crnojevića to Virpazar, is 39 km. It starts at the petrol station at the Cetinje exit at 660 m, passes the Belvedere restaurant at 1.8 km and then drops for 15.5 km to Rijeka Crnojevića at 25 m, the old river port at the head of Lake Skadar. From Virpazar the elevation profile runs through Ostros, Kravari and Vladimir to Ulcinj and on to Ada Bojana, the island at the mouth of the Bojana and the lowest point of the loop at 2 m. The way back leads through Bar and over the Sutorman pass on Rumija at 790 m, the high point, before the return to Cetinje. Traffic is a risk only on short busy sections, and the springs along the way give drinkable water.

Climbing and daily distances

3,900 m of ascent over 236 km: two days means stages of about 118 km with roughly 1,950 m of climbing each, three days about 79 km and 1,300 m. The first day is mostly downhill, from 660 m at Cetinje to the lake; the climbing is concentrated on the coast-to-lake crossing at Sutorman and the final rise back to Cetinje. The grade is moderate. Plan the stages from the GPX track.

When to ride

Cycling in Montenegro is possible all year, and this is the Top Trail that fits the claim: nothing on it is higher than the Sutorman pass at 790 m, so the loop is ridden in every season, with the summer heat of the coast and the lake as the thing to plan around rather than snow.

Signposts, brochure and GPX

Signposts mark the route along its whole length. Ride with the GPX track loaded as well: it is the reference line of the route and the way to check position on remote sections, and the stages are best planned from it. The brochure (English, PDF) carries the elevation profile with the places on the way, the route description and the kit list. The route was traced by Tane Minić, the texts are by Jovan Eraković, and the publisher is the Regional Development Agency for Bjelasica, Komovi and Prokletije, with the Austrian Development Agency and the Ministry of Sustainable Development and Tourism.

Getting to the start

The loop starts and ends at Cetinje, at the petrol station at the town exit (660 m), at 42.388, 18.930. Virpazar, Ulcinj and Bar are the overnight towns on the way.

Safety

Ride in a group on the remote sections and carry a map and compass or a GPS, a phone, a torch, basic tools and a spare tyre. The emergency number is 112.

Rest days and nearby

The loop runs through Skadar Lake National Park, which has 5 road and 2 mountain-bike routes of its own from Virpazar, Rijeka Crnojevića and Dodoši; kayaking on Skadar Lake is the rest-day option there. Shorter rides in the same area are the loop from Podgorica through Virpazar and Rijeka Crnojevića among the national routes and, from the Bar tourist organisation, the routes from Rijeka Crnojevića via Virpazar to Ckla (65 km, 470 m of climbing) and from Virpazar via Sutorman to Bar (34 km, 730 m of climbing), the Sutorman crossing as a day route. At Cetinje, cycling in Lovćen National Park and Lipa Cave are close by, and on the coast Velika plaža runs from Ulcinj to Ada Bojana.

The five Top Trails

The national Top Trails are five signposted multi-day routes with a brochure and a GPX track each, all on the cycling hub.

Questions

How long is Top Trail 5?

236 km, in 2 to 3 days; it is the shortest of the five national routes.

How hard is it?

3,900 m of climbing over the loop, with the Sutorman pass at 790 m as the high point; the first day drops 15.5 km from Cetinje to Rijeka Crnojevića. The grade is moderate.

Is there water on the way?

Yes; spring water along the route is drinkable.

Is it marked?

Yes, with signposts along the whole route; the GPX track is the second navigation aid and the one to rely on away from the towns.